Although many of the wineries around Daylesford technically fall under the “Macedon Ranges” classification, because they lie to the NW (and thus further from Melbourne) of such an already spread-out region, they are seldom visited and less well known. But we predict this will change in the coming months and years, and with good reason. There is a sort of renaissance going on in the wine scene around Daylesford at the moment – a sort of upswell in the energy and enthusiasm among craft winemakers – a notable disturbance in the force… You can almost feel it in the air!
The early results of this renaissance have certainly captured our attention. Wines we have tasted recently from a handful of winemakers around Daylesford are among the most singular we have found thus far into 2021. Some are wines that are reaching for something smart and new. Others are wines that are straining for perfection. Still others are bringing a renewed concentration to the refinement and singularity of old standards. Many are wines of true distinction … Not very often we would make such a statement, but then again we are talking about a special moment in a small region with one of Australia’s most singular wine-climates.
You should book yourself a weekend in the lovely Daylesford and see for yourself! Make sure you don’t miss these three incredible stops when you go. (To see reviews of these and many, many more wineries, check out: winehuntersworld.com/wineries
1) Zig Zag Winery is such an inspiring affair. A young wife and husband duo (Harriet and Henry) took over the vineyard 3 years ago, and what they’ve already brought to the place is almost unbelievable. There is a “crowd-sourced” ethos to almost everything ZZR does (always in consultation with the local community and passionate customers) that is reflected in how they think about everything from planting a vine to designing a label. There is also a super-clear love of land and fellow human being that threads through every aspect of the operation. And while some of that might sound (admittedly, even to us!) a bit “hippy-dippy”, the proof is every bit in the pudding, and what a delicious pudding ZZR is cooking! To give you an idea of the spectrum here, our favourite wines on a recent visit were the exquisitely traditional old-vine Pinot Noir with its gentle mesh of subtle complexity, and the more lightening in a bottle / Thor-hath-spoken wild ferment red field blend – this plucky brew is raw and edgy in all the right ways! It’s like the passion and ethos described above have gone right into that bottle!
2) Passing Clouds is probably Daylesford’s most famous winery, and considering their string of sublime wines over the years, rightfully so. But still, their history of success notwithstanding, something about Passing Clouds seems fresh, alive, and relevant right now. Sure, it’s almost heart-breakingly refreshing to receive such friendly service from such nice people after the long COVID winter. And yes the views are beautiful. But it’s the wines that have us hooked – they somehow feel more alive and appropriate than ever before. In our most recent visit, we were fetched with their soft citrus delight of a Chardonnay and their more bombastic, bright and alive 2019 Bendigo Shiraz with its titillating dark tendrils of flavours passing through. Opposite ends of the spectrum, to be sure, and reflective of good-as-it-gets fruit and smart winemaking.
3) Wombat Forest Vineyard may have been quietly plugging away for the better part of the last thirty years, but with the recent construction of their Burrow Event Space and its breathtaking vistas of dramatic forest scenes just outside, it feels almost like the regional gem descended from heaven just last night. Wombat has truly constructed the region’s most dramatic and beautiful cellar door / event space, and you can’t help feeling special just sitting in there. And the space itself is warmed by the bubbly personality of the engaging owners who keep you company as they describe their wines. In our most recent visit, we were floored by their dark and mysterious Blanc de Noir sparkling (it really caught us by surprise – don’t often find such an evocative sparkling wine!) and their freight train 2016 Chardonnay, driven by very powerful fruit that is very much alive five years later.
And for an added bonus, pop by Sailors Falls Estate. A tasting with Robert McDonald is priceless – heartwarming to see what determination can achieve.
The Daylesford wine scene is a true inspiration at the moment. We hope you’ll check it out. Experiences like these are #WhyWeLoveWine
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