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Another year has passed, and in it, many inspiring wines have passed our lips once again. Last year, we kept a closer tab than in 2018 and so can say with certainty that we tried over 2,000 wines in 2019 (the 50 or so best of which we offer below and in the following post). While 2k+ is a decent number, it’s only a fraction of 10,000++ (probably more like 20k) different wines produced in Australia each year. By definition, the wines on our list can’t have come from that vast pool we sadly didn’t get to try (so don’t be surprised if you don’t see one of your favs). Still, we enthusiastically and whole-heartedly endorse every wine below. They are in a class of their own.
We remind everyone that our picks come from wineries big and small, far and wide; it’s a passion project, and our passion has never been for sale 🙂 We are breaking our Wines of the Year post into two separate posts this year because Facebook can’t seem to handle the size of one. Perhaps readers will enjoy them without having to commit too much time to one reading.
2019 Wine of the Year – This year, we have a tie. Two wines which were just too perfect and sublime not to recognise. Though quite different; identical in both being heaven in a bottle. We gnashed our teeth and pulled our hair to choose but one, but alas, neither would be denied….
* Arno Wine Co. 2018 Grenache – Another Arno Grenache miracle. Is it possible this one is even better than the last? Arno works an indisputable magic with this varietal. There are simultaneously a titanic depth and a twinkling brightness to Arno’s Grenache that we cannot explain and have not seen replicated elsewhere. It is vibrantly alive but worthy of ponder. A purity in the beautiful Grenache flavour, a roundness, a completeness to this glorious wine. Is it super drinkable? Hell yeah! Could it take your mind to a place to ponder the mysteries of the world? That too.
*Â Merum Priorati’s El Cel really does reach the heavens in a way see in less than 0.1% of wines. A jaw-droppingly sublime and mighty wine. All power and poise; rich and potent; majestic in the scope of flavours it weaves into its silken tapestry: the definition of elegance. Literally, a stunning wine. We try to (and 99% do) focus on AUS wine, but this one was too special not to mention.
Past Winners:
2018 Wine of the Year:
* Ellis Wines 2012 Signature Cab Sav – What we said: “Singularly the best AUS Cab Sav we have ever had. Huge waves of flavour roll across the palate. A beautiful texture is achieved in this wine that we can’t recall having seen before. Although the wine has a few years now, the fruit flavour remains very bright, and perhaps because its from Heathcote, the Cab Sav specific flavours aren’t angular at all but beautifully polished with every taste note pleasant.”
2017 Wine of the Year:
* Hanging Rock Winery 2013 Jim Jim Pinot Noir – What we said: This wine conjures to mind the ethereal mists spraying forth from frothy waves pounding jagged cliffs, a slow shooting star on the clearest night … THE BEST AUS PINOT WE HAVE EVER TASTED. A silken muse – Framed by engaging light pepper, earthiness, and inviting shades of black cherry, could not be smoother, but somehow sparkles on the palate. The elegance you expect from a great Pinot, but this wine shines like a star beyond. Soul soothing. Ultimately satisfying. We’d kill for more.
2019 Wines of the Year:
Cabernet Sauvignon – Although it’s hard to ween off the Ellis Cab we loved soooo very much last year (see just above), 2019 was a great year for Cab Sav discovery all the same. We found the gamut of delight, from beautifully soft Cabs to Cabs of military precision to giant beastly affairs who cups overran with CS delish.
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*Â Balgownie Estate Vineyard 2015 Cab Sav – A perfect, focused Cab capturing beautifully and very precisely each of the various CS notes for which most Cab Savs only dream to achieve one. Deep, precise, and so rewarding. Almost clinically precise except for that just a little blackberry cobbler waiting for you at the very bottom of this glass.
* McHenry Hohnen 2014 Hazel’s Vineyard Cab Sav – This one is a big, gutsy, meat-eater’s Cab, spilling over the edges with red-blooded, juicy deliciousness… it captures all the yummy Cab Sav notes and delivers them in a very full-bodied way. Napa-esque, to some degree, but mostly just Yum!!
* Parker Coonawarra Estate 2018 Cab Sav – For an “entry level” Cab, this one is gorgeously smooth, but it stands out most for such a unique and beautiful flavour profile of juicy blueberry and boysenberry fruit. Hearkens to some of its Cab Sav brethren in CA. A steal.
* Vasse Felix 2016 Filius Cab Sav – Such a delightfully well-rounded Cab Sav plump with the best flavours from the Cabernet spectrum. Heartwarming to see such a wine offered at only $28. If you’re just beginning your journey into the world of Cab Sav, we can’t think of a much better place to start.
Grenache – 2019 was a fabulous year for Grenache. Producers are finding more and more ways to coax nuances out of the surprisingly complex grape. It won’t be long, and Grenaches will be commanding Shiraz level prices!
* Arno Wine Co. 2018 Grenache – See 2019 Wine of the Year above.
* Faber Vineyard 2018 Swan Valley Grenache – Shockingly deep and dark for a Grenache. A brooding wine that seems to contain the secrets of the world in its impenetrable depths – we drank two bottles trying to divine them 🙂 This is truly a unique and satisfying Grenache.
*Â Kalleske Wines 2017 Grenache – Not what you expect from a Barossa Grenache (or really any Grenache), and that’s part of why it captivates. Gently assertive, but increasingly so along the way with little pricks of briar and bramble alongside spiced fruits of all sorts. Too polished to be rustic, but not far from. Engaging and rewarding.
* Langmeil Winery 2018 Rough Diamond Grenache – A quintessential Barossa Grenache. Sweet cherry balanced by bramble and discernible notes of peppery spice; it’s like drinking Barossa right from the bottle. Grenache has been underappreciated in AUS (though that is slowly changing). This one is as rewarding and engaging as any Shiraz.
Pinot Noir – 2019 must have been the year of wide-ranging wines. As with Cab and Grenache, you will find a great diversity of wonderful profiles in the wines listed below. We hope to discover more takes like those of Brockenchack and Ghost Rock on this legendary French grape in 2010!
* Brockenchack Wines 2017 Hare Hunter Pinot Noir – A very serious French-style complete Pinot Noir. While you wouldn’t call it heavy, the wine still achieves a satisfying heft and depth not typically seen in AUS Pinot. A perfect rich food wine (no pun; would be awesome with hare stew). We loved it! Hope to see more of this varietal coming from Eden…
* De Bortoli Wines Yarra Valley Riorret The Abbey Vineyard 2018 Pinot Noir – De Bortoli has produced Pinot gold with its Riorret vineyard over the year, and 2018 is no exception. A hyper-elegant, delicate, and beautiful cool climate Pinot, lashed with violets, cherries, and autumn spices, all speaking from the earth from which it came.
* Rockburn Wines Devil’s Staircase 2018 Pinot Noir – An excellent drink now Pinot winner (seems we see one or two of these each year recently, and that’s great!). Plush cherry, gentle hints of forest, and the distant allure of soft spices – could almost be a Syrah with no sour or edge. * Ghost Rock Supernatural – “Rustic” wouldn’t do this one justice. Ghost Rock’s supernatural practically pulls you into the glass and hits you with the wild textures and flavours of the coast where it was grown. Unique, engaging, and satisyfing.
* The Ninth Mile 2017 Stanley Pinot Noir – A soaring and suave Pinot, crosses the palate like a polished bullet of dark mystery. You must spend time with this one to unfold its depths. Truly a superb Pinot.
*Â Seville Hill Wines 2016 Pinot Noir – Another Seville Hill meat eater’s classic. Big, bold, broad body. A Shiraz drinker’s Pinot, but balanced and elegant all the same. Plenty of savoury beneath the heft. 2.5 years in barrel.
* Stonier Wines 2016 Lyncroft Vineyard Pinot Noir – Cherry, but the most elegant cherry. Floats around the palate as if on a cloud. When Stonier hits the nail on the head with this style, you won’t find better elsewhere!
* Yabby Lake Vineyard – Mornington Peninsula Single Block 5 Pinot Noir- The height of Pinot elegance delivered. Delicious juiciness framed by enticing spices with a perfect medium body. As good as Mornington (and some would say Australian) Pinot gets.
Red Blends – Funny, we’ve oft commented that AUS should do more blends; by definition they offer better ability to balance wines and develop interesting profiles. There are some awesome blends in the list below to be sure, and some great new taste profiles like Sandhurst Ridge’s “Italiano”. We hope to find more of these in 2020.
* De Lisio Wines Argento Cab-Merlot – Quintessential AUS Cab-Merlot. Blackberries, mocha, and a touch of forest floor perfectly balanced on its bed of soft bramble. Instantly satisfying and will keep you coming back. Yum!
* Jericho Wines 2017 GSM – A unique GSM all bright spice and punchiness, but somehow plush and extravagant at the same time. Refreshingly alive for a blend that can often come off so dull.
* Mas Alta 2016 La Basseta Priorat – Above all, this wine defines integration in a way so complete, it almost redefines the word. Beautiful and powerful flavour undercurrents woven together seamlessly as one. Priorat at its best. We mostly stick to AUS wines in our wines of the year, but this one had to be mentioned.
* Obsidian Vineyard 2015 Reserve Obsidian – Such a pure wine with no pretence. Buttery, opulent yet assertive, and wildly alive. Young black fruits, cracked pepper, fresh tobacco, rich mocha and a vibrant line of acidity! Surely Waiheke’s best value in 2019.
*Â Sandhurst Ridge Winery 2016 Italiano – A surprising and inspired blend of Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The typically sharp savour of the formidable Nebbiolo is perfectly restrained by plump Sangiovese and calming Cabernet. This excellent wine is perfect for food but also be thoroughly enjoyed by itself.
* Turkey Flat Vineyards 2017 Buthchers Block Red Blend – At their best, GSMs bring to mind polished gems (usually ruby or amethyst depending on the primary fruit), but they don’t come much more polished than this. A fair breadth of pure fruit flavours are carefully woven together on a fine thread that plays against soft texture and mild savouriness. Incredible that such a wine could be offered at less than $25.
Shiraz – With its varied geographies, it is always a good year for Australia’s grape, and 2019 was no exception. Geez did we find some delicious ones, with Heathcote in particular showing in spades.
* Craggy Range Winery 2016 Hawkes Bay Single Vine Syrah – An oh so serious Syrah of soaring beauty that completely captures the spirit of its Rhone heritage. Soft perfumed start, deep dark finish. A truly sophisticated wine.
* Domaine Asmara Vineyard 2016 Private Collection Shiraz – A subdued depth belies a powerful wine that besieges the palate with wave after wave of broad deliciousness. In the classic hallmark Heathcote dichotomy of elegance vs power, this one pushes a little toward the side of power, and gosh is it rewarding.
* Dorrien Estate Sparkling Shiraz – Blackberries and spice, elegantly delivered with suggestive complexity. Every year we discover another sparkling Shiraz that showcases a wider cut of the Shiraz flavour spectrum than most stills can, and this was it in 2019! Such a beautiful Shiraz.
* Four Winds Vineyard 2016 Shiraz – Beautiful ripe strawberry, almost buttery, sparkles on the palate with the faintest hints of savoury. A gorgeous medium-bodied cool climate Shiraz that we would challenge anyone not to enjoy. You just couldn’t not love this wine… Probably drinking perfectly right now!
*Â Howard Park Wines 2015 Flint Rock Syrah – A brooding depth of dark fruit but also an element of brightness with hints of light spice elevating the wine on the palate – astute wine-making. The subdue texture holds it all together. A smooth but also textural and completely mouth-filling experience. An unbelievably rewarding wine. So rich, and yet so elegant.
* Idavue Estate 2016 Blue Note Shiraz – hefty layers of deep dark raspberry and earthy delicious engulf the palate in this bright and masculine Shiraz. It retains the balance of all great Heathcote, Shiraz, but it definitely makes a statement of power. Satisfying at first sip.
* Kaesler Wines 2017 The Bogan Shiraz – A meat eater’s Shiraz to be sure, but a serious wine all the same. Loads of black fruit balanced with tendrils of blue fruit and an almost effervescent spiciness. A quintessential Barossa Shiraz, but more importantly, an integrated and harmonious one.
… to be continued in Wines of the Year 2019 Part 2 of 2 …