A trip to La Rioja, Spain is an eventual “must do” for any serious wine lover. The globally renowned region has practically defined Spanish wine on the world stage for many decades now. And while the region clings steadfastly to its history and ancient traditions (think Tempranillo and ample oak), many wineries there today are expanding their offer and also producing wines of many other varietals sourced from such rising regions as Ribiera del Duero and Rias Baixas.
We were struck when one observant employee at a prominent winery in Haro almost poetically pointed out that “Rioja can’t change; it is trapped by the confines of its own success.” It is true that there is a certain homogeneity amongst the ubiquitous Reservas, offered by every single winery. But this is too narrow a lens to judge the region. There is also glorious invention and experimentalism that continues to shape the evolving dream that is Rioja.
We recently visited Rioja. It is a beautiful region and fun to explore; in Haro alone, you can walk to ten or so prominent wineries with great ease. Each one serves up the fruit of centuries of time-honoured tradition with the polish of modern service and sleek cellar doors. If you have wheels, the Frank Gerhy designed Bodegas Marqués de Riscal is a can’t miss, and so is the charming little town/castle of La Guardia with all of its little underground gems (if you make it to La Guardia, don’t miss Eguren Ugarte!)
When you visit Haro, following are a few stops not to miss!
* Grupo La Rioja Alta, S.A. is a stylish, well-appointed, and well staffed winery. A good experience and a good representation of what serious Rioja wine is all about. We loved the Aster Finca El Otero 2014 – a wine of great distinction with heavy lashes of olive an aniseed. A more fruit-driven wine than traditional Riojas.
* Gómez Cruzado offers one of the regions’s best tasting experiences. Instead of just selling glasses of wine with little education, Gomez offers tasting flights with as much detail on the underlying winemaking as you want! We loved the 2015 Honorable (a signature wine made from multiple varietals with a bright and lingering finish) and the Montes Obarenes (a very serious and punchily resolved white!)
* CVNE Vino is really a consortium of four wineries, which means you’ll have plenty to try! The good staff serve up a great overall experience. We really, really loved the exquisite Cune 2016 Crianza and its beautiful, pristine fruit clarity – like Aspen in October. One of Rioja’s best values.
* Bodegas Muga is definitely one of Haro’s fanciest stops and well worth your time. If you know the Yarra Valley in AUS, it reminds us a bit of Chandon. We loved the Muga 2015 Reserve Seleccion Especial (both fruit fresh and refined at the same time) and the Torre Muga 2015 (also polish and fruit fresh. A winning ticket too seldom found in Rioja!)
* Ramon Bilbao is an absolutely stunning winery with striking architecture and incredible landscaping; it’s almost like you’ve been transported into the world of Avatar. Truly a great place to feel fancy! But RB is more than external image; the place boasts one of the region’s widest line ups with some exceptional stand-outs. We love the Pomal Reserva – elegant, smooth, and satisfying with heaps of polished fruit and a lingering finish.
* Vivanco. Cultura de Vino. offers up one of Rioja’s best and most unique experiences. Although one town away from Haro in Briones, this is probably Rioja’s best all-around stop. The family behind the winery have also built a magnificent museum that fastidiously documents and celebrates the region’s long and famous history. It’s an incredible education, engagingly shared, in a fabulous edifice, that all ends with a wine tasting. How is anyone going to top that?!?!?!
The history, the passion, and the continuing evolution of La Rioja are #WhyWeLoveWine Make sure you don’t miss any of our adventures! Follow us at facebook.com/winehuntersaus