Liebich Wines’ trademark “Heritage in a Glass” is dead-on. Old Ron and Jan Liebech have been at it for years, keeping the traditional ways alive, and to our good benefit! This is a tiny winery whose charming cellar door might as well be in a barn. (Just when you think you’re lost on the winding dirt road, an old wooden sign that reads “wine sales” reassures you’ve gone the right way.) While Jan is pouring your tasting, don’t be surprised to see Ron passing through in the back between winemaking tasks. The Liebichs are down to 40 acres under vine. We hope for our sakes this number dwindles no further. Similar to Seville Hill Wines in the Yarra (one of our favs), the Liebichs claim their quality is due to letting the grapes fully ripen before harvest. A lower yield more than pays its way with superior end product. A trip to Liebich is a trip back in time, to a place where quality trumped all else as the guiding star in production. In the end, Liebich sticks to its strengths – reds and fortifieds (Liebich produced a contender for the best all-around Shiraz we have ever tasted). To make room for the good stuff, you can pass on tasting the small selection of whites. This is an A+ winery experience that cannot be missed.